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CURATED ATLAS FOR CONTEMPORARY DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE
(North Western Japan)(Travel)(Travel)2023-09-05

Guide to North Western Japan

From the seaside city of Kanazawa to the Meiji-era downtown of Takayama to the Gasshô-zukuri architecture behind the thatched roofed village of Shirakawa-go to historic onsens and James Turrell sleepovers. We travel across snow-drenched mountains to visit an almost mythological old-world Japan. 

UNESCO World Heritage site of the Shirakawa-go thatched roof village
UNESCO World Heritage site of the Shirakawa-go thatched roof village

If Tokyo is known for its bustling neon haze, Kyoto for its imperial palaces and temples and Kyushu for its volcanic sub-tropical landscapes, then we can say that the North Western region of Japan (we visit the Chubu and Kanto regions) is like stepping back into time to a snow-covered old world Japan with dark-wood, thatch-roofed houses and an abundance of hot springs.

With an architectural history of building in wood, most of the country's ancient buildings need much restoration and even habitual reconstruction on the same site, especially those which find themselves under feet of snow each winter. This is what makes architecture hunting in this region all the more special. We cross mountains to visit UNESCO World Heritage villages boasting a living architectural marvel and testament to local indigenous technology, sleepover in an immersive installation of James Turrell's, soak in a Meiji-era onsen once frequented by Japan's royal family and visit centuries-old mountaintop merchant cities and the Contemporary Art hotspot of seaside Kanazawa.

The main room of Kominka brewery and mansion, the perfectly preserved Yoshijima Heritage House in Takayama | Photo Kristen de La Valliere
The main room of Kominka brewery and mansion, the perfectly preserved Yoshijima Heritage House in Takayama | Photo Kristen de La Valliere
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Shirakawa-gō

UNESCO's World Heritage Site Shirakawa-gō is comprised of a cluster of villages, a living architecture park showcasing traditional buildings and the local craft that goes into the steep Gasshô-Zukuri thatched roofs

Yoshijima Heritage house

Century-old Kominka mansion and former sake brewery with traditional architecture from the Meiji era

James Turrell's House of Light

In the heart of Niigata, 2.7m above ground to cope with heavy winter snowfalls we find a meditation house designed by James Turrell, where guests can spend the night within this immersive installation

Hoshi Onsen Chōjukan

This preserved historic 140-year-old Ryokan from the Meiji Era is home to a secluded hot spring, which welcomed famed creative intellectuals and Japanese royalty over the decades and offers the rare opportunity for mixed-gender baths.

The Ken Domon Museum of Photography

The first and only photography museum in the world dedicated to an individual person, prolific photojournalist Ken Domon who redefined Realism in post-war Japan, designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi

Kiyoharu Art Colony

With architecture by renowned architects such as Gustave Eiffel, Yoshio Taniguchi, Tadao Ando and Terunobu Fujimori – the Kiyoharu Art Colony is an outdoor architecture park built for artists to create and interact with the changing seasons.

D.T. Suzuki Museum

Architect Yoshio Taniguchi constructs a museum dedicated to the work and life of D.T. Suzuki, a Buddhist philosopher born in Kanazawa.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa

This museum designed by Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa in Kanazawa, Japan features immersive installations from the likes of James Turrell and is amongst the top ten most visited Contemporary Art Museums in the world.